August 8, 1998

Highlights of Honduras (cont.)
by Patrick Heyman

Copan

No trip to Honduras is complete without a trip to the Mayan ruins of Copan. The name Copan can be a bit confusing, as it refers to a city, a river, a county, and the Mayan ruins. Be sure that you are specific when using the name. The town is typical of small Honduran rural communities of about 5,000 people. But it is both blessed and cursed with the presence of the nearby Mayan ruins which brings countless foreign and domestic visitors each year.

The ruins themselves are fairly well preserved, since they were destroyed by nature and not by war. The buildings are not very impressive when compared to the larger ruins of Tikal or the Yucatan. What sets Copan apart is the intricate detail of its buildings. As a center of learning and culture, it seems that the artesans in Copan surpassed the rest of the Mayan culture. The stelae are the most detailed in the Mayan world. Many of the building facades are replete with carvings and runes. Also unique is that most of the damage at Copan was caused by nature, not war destruction. The buildings were originally painted in vivid colors, but erosion and time have taken their toll.

Since Mayans built cities on top of cities, archeologists have dug a series of tunnels below the city, finding intact temples complete with their painted walls. A number of pink jade sceptres were found at one of these subterranean altars. However the theft of some jade pieces that were being excavated has resulted in a tightening of security. Mayan artifacts abound on the ground at the site, including pieces of polychrome pottery and fragments of obsidian cutting tools. Removing these from Honduras is against the law.

The museum at the ruins is very impressive. It encloses a scale replica of one of the subterranean temples allowing a glimpse of what the Mayans might have seen and felt during their glory years.

There are two other activities available in Copan. The first is relaxing in thermal springs, about a fifty minute ride from the town. The second is a trip to Los Sapos (The Frogs). Los Sapos is a site on a nearby mountainside where some rough carvings can be seen. Some people think that the Mayan women went there to have their children. Others think that the site was a place for practicing carving. The journey to the site is absolutely gorgeous, with rolling hills and an idyllic stream. You can either walk or ride horses up the hills.

A word of caution. The bridles for the horses do not have bits. Some of the horses do not even have bridles, but just a halter. Most of the horses are nags. They are used to plow fields and pull carts during the day. They make a little extra money on the side by hauling tourists to Los Sapos. These horses are fairly tame, mild, and in easy riding. However, every now and then, you might get a new horse. You can tell, because its hips will not protrude through its skin. Be very careful as you might not be able to control the horse. Before riding it, check the equipment, especially the stirrups, to make sure that they will hold you. Breaking a stirrup while galloping on a horse that you cannot stop is not the most pleasant of experiences, even for an adrenaline junky like myself. Of course it does make you the hero of the day.

There are several places to stay in Copan.  The Marina Copan is built in a villa style with arches and a courtyard.  Upon arrival, guests are greeted by the "maybe later kids".  These children selling souvenirs are so used to the response maybe later, that they follow up their offer by saying maybe later.

Note:  Unfortunately, when after returning to the United States my camera was stolen with my last roll of film in it, so my pictures of the museum and horseback riding did not come out. Once my colleagues' pictures come back, I will post their pictures of these two places.